This Ford Transit Custom came in with a banging noise on idle and a high clutch pedal. On investigation the dual mass flywheel had broken up internally — chunks of material were visible inside the unit — and the clutch itself was worn and contaminated with debris. Both the clutch kit and dual mass flywheel needed replacing together.
This is a major job requiring the gearbox to be fully removed. It's time-consuming but very methodical — if you work through it systematically it goes back together well. A quality clutch alignment tool is essential for refitting.
Classic Symptoms of Clutch & DMF Failure
- Banging, rattling or knocking noise on idle — especially when cold
- High clutch biting point or clutch pedal feels different
- Clutch slipping under load
- Difficulty selecting gears or gearbox jumping out of gear
- Vibration through the clutch pedal
- Worn or contaminated clutch friction plate
Tools & Parts You'll Need
Step-by-Step Guide
Top End Stripdown — Air Box, Turbo Pipe & Gear Cables
Open the bonnet and remove the air box (lift back, undo MAF sensor and cold air feed pipe). Remove the turbo intercooler pipe that runs around to the turbo and the breather hose clip. This gives clear access to the top of the bell housing. Disconnect the two gear cables using a small pry bar — pop them off their mounting points. Remove the three bell housing bolts across the top of the casing.
Slave Cylinder & Gearbox Mount
Locate the slave cylinder on the side of the bell housing and clamp off the hydraulic pipe before disconnecting it — this prevents losing all the clutch fluid. Remove the gearbox mount: two 21mm bolts on top and two 15mm bolts either side. The vehicle is now ready to go up in the air for the underside work.
Underside — Starter Motor, Drive Shafts & Drain Gearbox Oil
Raise the vehicle fully. Disconnect the starter motor (two 13mm bolts) and all associated wiring including the 8mm bracket bolt. Disconnect the reverse light switch. Drain the gearbox oil — the drain plug is on the bottom of the gearbox casing. Remove both drive shafts: undo the centre bearing carrier (two 13mm bolts) and pull each shaft free from the gearbox. Plug the gearbox apertures with clean rags to prevent contamination.
Lower Arms, Brace Bar & Remaining Bell Housing Bolts
Disconnect both front lower arms using a 24mm socket. Remove the underside brace bar. Work around the back of the gearbox disconnecting any remaining wiring, cable brackets and the remaining bell housing bolts. Support the engine on a pole jack from above before the next step.
Remove the Gearbox Mount & Lower the Gearbox
With the engine supported on the pole jack, remove the remaining 15mm bolts holding the gearbox mount to the gearbox. Support the gearbox on a transmission jack. Remove all remaining bell housing bolts. Lower the transmission jack slowly, tilting and twisting the gearbox as needed to clear the engine bay. The gearbox is heavy and awkward — take your time and have an assistant if possible.
Inspect & Remove the Clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel
With the gearbox out, inspect the clutch cover, friction plate and release bearing. Clean up any dust carefully — use a damp cloth rather than blowing it with air. Inspect the dual mass flywheel for excessive rock or broken internal components. On this Transit the DMF had completely broken up internally — large chunks of material were visible. Remove the clutch cover bolts and pull the clutch assembly free. Remove the DMF bolts and lift the flywheel off — note it may have spun over its bolt holes and need repositioning before the bolts will come out.
Fit New DMF, Clutch Kit & Slave Cylinder
Clean the crankshaft flange thoroughly. Fit the new dual mass flywheel using new bolts — always use new flywheel bolts, never reuse the old ones. Torque to the manufacturer's specification. Fit the new clutch friction plate and pressure plate assembly — use a clutch alignment tool to centre the plate perfectly before tightening the cover bolts. Fit the new slave cylinder into the bell housing.
Refit the Gearbox
Raise the gearbox back up on the transmission jack. Hook the transmission jack leg into the gearbox casing to allow you to tilt and angle the box as you raise it. Line up the input shaft with the clutch centre — thanks to the alignment tool this should slide straight in. Start the lower bell housing bolts first to pull the gearbox home, then work around adding all remaining bolts. Refit the gearbox mount and all engine bay components in reverse order.
Refit Drive Shafts, Fill Gearbox Oil & Bleed Clutch
Refit both drive shafts and the centre bearing carrier. Reconnect the starter motor and all wiring. Refit lower arms, brace bar and all underside components. Fill the gearbox with the correct oil — this Transit Custom takes 2.15 litres of Castrol Transmax Manual 75W. Connect a pressure bleeder to the clutch master cylinder reservoir and bleed the clutch system until a firm pedal is achieved with no air in the system.
First Start, Clutch Test & Road Test
Lower the vehicle and refit the wheels. Start the engine and test the clutch pedal — it should feel firm and progressive with a good biting point. Select reverse and drive to confirm the gearbox is selecting cleanly. Road test, paying attention to clutch feel, any noises on idle and smooth gear selection throughout the rev range. Re-check the gearbox oil level after the road test.
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Job Summary
What to expect on this repair: