This 2017 Ford Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost came in for a clutch master cylinder replacement. The clutch master cylinder on this generation Fiesta is integrated into the clutch pedal assembly and mounted on the bulkhead — accessible only after removing the scuttle panel, wipers and dropping into the engine bay to reach the hydraulic pipes, as well as removing the steering column briefly inside the car to get at the pedal mounting bolts.
It is a fairly involved job requiring work in both the engine bay and the interior, but entirely doable with patience and the right approach. Once the new cylinder is in, the clutch must be bled through the slave cylinder before the car can be driven.
Tools & Parts Needed
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Step-by-Step Guide
Remove the Wipers & Scuttle Panel
Pull off the plastic caps at the wiper arm bases and undo the two 16mm nuts. Press the arm down onto the spindle firmly and ping it upward to release it — don’t lose the washers. Remove the scuttle panel by popping all the clips along its length and carefully lifting it away, pulling out the rubber seals from either side of the windscreen as you go. This reveals the inner scuttle section.
Remove the Inner Scuttle Section
Remove one 10mm bolt each side of the inner section. You will find you need headlight access to reach the outer 10mm bolt on each side — undo the two T30 Torx screws on top of each headlight, release the clip from the top of the bumper, and pop it up for access. Once all bolts are out the inner section lifts clear. Keep the small metal clips that sit under it — they are easy to lose.
Disconnect the Hydraulic Pipes on the Bulkhead
With better access now available, locate the two hydraulic clutch pipes on the bulkhead. The upper pipe (feed from the reservoir) releases by pushing the tab back firmly with a long bar and pulling the pipe out. The lower pipe (to the slave cylinder) requires pushing back a small C-clip with a long pick to release it. Both are fiddly but accessible with the right tools. Have a cloth ready as fluid will drip.
Remove the Steering Column (Interior)
Inside the car, pull the steering column lower cover off to expose the 10mm bolt that clamps the column. Undo this bolt all the way and slide the column upward to create clearance for accessing the 13mm pedal mounting bolts behind it.
Disconnect the Clutch Pedal Sensor & Remove the Pedal Assembly
The clutch pedal sensor is a small unit on the side of the pedal — pop it out and set it to one side. Undo the three 13mm bolts that mount the pedal assembly to the bulkhead. With all three out, wiggle the pedal away from the studs. The clutch pedal sensor wiring runs up the side of the pedal to a plug above — reach up, unplug it, and the whole assembly comes out in one.
Separate the Master Cylinder from the Pedal (Bench)
On the bench, use long nose pliers to access the white plastic retaining pin at the back of the pedal-to-cylinder connection. Squeeze it together and pull it free — this releases the cylinder push rod from the pedal arm. Then undo the two T30 Torx bolts (with corresponding 13mm nuts on the back) that mount the master cylinder body to the pedal bracket. Unplug the wiring connector from the cylinder. The master cylinder is now completely separated from the pedal assembly.
Transfer Any Fittings & Fit the New Cylinder
Transfer the foam pad from the old cylinder to the new one if needed. Plug the wiring connector into the new cylinder. Offer the new unit up to the pedal bracket, line up the mounting holes and fit the T30 bolts and 13mm nuts. Push the push rod through the pedal arm hole until the white pin clicks and locks it in position.
Refit Pedal Assembly & Steering Column
Carry the pedal assembly back into the car. Before pushing it onto the bulkhead studs, plug in the wiring connector above. Slide the assembly onto the studs and refit all three 13mm bolts. Refit the clutch pedal sensor. Slide the steering column back down and refit the 10mm clamp bolt. Refit the steering column cover.
Reconnect Pipes & Rebuild Scuttle
Back in the engine bay, reconnect the two hydraulic pipes to the new master cylinder — they push in and click to lock. Refit the inner scuttle section and both headlights. Refit the scuttle panel, pressing the rubber seals back into place along the windscreen. Refit the wipers.
Bleed the Clutch & Test
Locate the slave cylinder bleed nipple underneath the car (near the gearbox). Attach a bleed bottle and pipe to the nipple. Unscrew the nipple half a turn. Keep the clutch fluid reservoir topped up and allow it to gravity bleed until only clean fluid with no bubbles flows out. You can pump the pedal to speed this up. Once clean, tighten the bleed nipple and test the clutch pedal — it should feel firm and light with a normal biting point.
🛒 Parts & Tools for This Job
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🛒 Parts & Tools for This Job
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